28 May.

28 May.
From: Limestone Spring shelter
To: The Hemlocks shelter
Mileage: 19
Weather: Sunny, cool

Roundabout Wraith was breaking camp when I got up, but I was up and out before the family in the shelter. There was a steep climb along a small waterfall and 0.5 mile hike back to the AT.
My primary objective was to go to Salisbury CT for a late breakfast and resupply at LaBonne's Market, which Tenacious recommended.
I found a sign as I entered town that recommended hikers use the "Beautiful Ramble" to get into town, but no directions. I saw a bike route sign nearby and found another hiker sign, and a description of the rail-trail history, so I followed the old railway path straight into town and found the market across the green.
From the deli, I ordered an egg, cheese and sausage breakfast sandwich on a croissant, then added a foot long turkey grinder with bacon to have for dinner (Roundabout Wraith had one at Limestone shelter the night before). I also picked up some candy, tortillas and tuna packets. I ate the breakfast sandwich on the bench outside and packed the rest.
As I hiked back out on the Ramble, I heard gunfire and realized I was missing the Memorial Day parade in town, but decided to move on.
The trail followed the road past the town cemetery, and I walked in to pay my respects at the marked veterans' graves. A woman biking past told me that the Memorial Day ceremony was about to begin, so I followed and watched the parade enter the cemetery and the entire observance, including roll call, 21 gun salute, and reading of the Gettysburg Address. I felt as if I was representing hikers. Two locals came over to talk with me about the ceremony and my hike. I refilled water from a tap on my way out.
I ran into Pootz slackpacking south as the trail left town and chatted briefly.
I stopped by the Riga shelter, which had a magnificent view over the valley then went on a brief distance to the Brassie Brook shelter where I originally planned to stop for the day. A South African hiker Jurgens (sp?) who I had passed earlier stopped at the shelter and seemed surprised that I was stopping at 2 pm, so I began to debate pushing another 8.5 miles across three significant ridge crossings to the next shelter. I found a register entry from Penguin who was there the night before that she felt out of sync with other hikers she had met. Jurgens moved on, and I ate half of my turkey grinder while I debated, but it was almost 3pm when I decided to try. I felt that I had the energy and barely enough time, and I really wanted to catch up with Penguin again.
I summited Bear Mountain, which had a view from a large rockpile and monument as highest point in Connecticut.
I dropped down into Sages Ravine and camping area, probably the most beautiful spots yet on the AT, with mountain streams and cascades through hemlock forest. I crossed the stream and was greeted by a sign for Massachusetts, leaving Connecticut behind.
I passed Jurgens on the trail, and he followed me until we reached the Laurel Ridge campsite that he was headed for.
I quickly passed three backpackers headed uphill and summited Mt Race, which had a spectacular trail section along a rocky escarpment with great views.
I then faced Mt Everett, and was annoyed by the steep rocky climb, but at least some rocky slabs had wood steps bolted into the rock, a rare instance of making the trail easier.
The summit of Mt Everett was beautiful in the late afternoon sun, and I enjoyed the cool breeze after the tough climb.
I checked my Hikerbot AT app on my phone to see how much further to the Hemlocks shelter, and found another stone shelter close by, not mentioned in AWOL's guide. I followed the side trail and debated staying at the simple shelter, which only had a concrete floor, but also an amazing view of the valley with a bench seat. I decided to press on the remaining 0.9 miles.
I reached the Hemlocks shelter, but was the only one there. It was getting dark, so I washed up, ate about a quarter of my turkey grinder for dinner and used my headlamp to get set for bed in the shelter's loft.
I felt that I accomplished a lot today, but still wondered if I would catch up with Penguin.

27 May.

27 May.
From: West Cornwall Rd
To: Limestone Spring shelter
Mileage: 13
Weather: Cloudy, cool, some light rain

The bunk at Bearded Woods hostel was extremely comfortable, but I did not sleep well. I took a 6:15am shower, not knowing my next opportunity. Then I stripped the bed linens and put them in the laundry bag.
Big Lu served a big breakfast of orange juice, cut toast, pineapple, and scrambled eggs with ham and cheese. Mmm!
After brushing my teeth, I finished packing up.
Hudson drove Pootz and I back to West Cornwall Road. Pootz was slackpacking to Falls Village CT while I was continuing to the next shelter.
Pootz and I hiked together, switching lead. Again, the trail was pleasant but not remarkable.
We stopped at a viewpoint for Lime Rock, a famous car race track at Falls Village CT according to Pootz. Being Memorial Day Sunday, we thought there might be a race, but were disappointed to see only a couple of cars checking the track. After we left, we heard revving engines, so our timing may have been off.
We ran into three young local hikers, who were only out for a couple of days. They followed us down to the road and went their own way.
After a short walk around a field, we ran into some mountain bikers who asked us about our hike and wished us well.
After some road walking, the trail ran along the Housatonic River before running into Falls Village. I lost sight of Pootz while putting on my poncho as it started to rain lightly. However, I caught sight of him entering town to look for Toymaker's Café, where we had agreed to have lunch. I caught up with him in town and we found the café, spotting another hiker going in. Pootz ordered a half-pound Angus burger and I ordered a turkey reuben. We invited the other hiker to join us. Her name was Happy Feet, a young woman from Switzerland who was hiking from Georgia but skipping sections as she only had three months. She was camping in Falls Village overnight to see the Memorial Day festivities on Monday.
Pootz decided to stay in town, where Hudson was to pick him up later and return to the hostel. I hiked on to the shelter for another three miles. On the way out of town I stopped to view an old weather instrument shelter that still had the wet and dry bulb thermometers, a NOAA rain gauge, and the outdoor water spigot/shower mentioned in AWOL's guide. There was a nice view of falls after crossing Iron bridge.
More pleasant trail climbing uphill. When I reached the shelter trail at 4pm, it was fairly gloomy but no rain. The trail to the shelter was half a mile, and the last part was steeply downhill along a small waterfall.
I found Roundabout Wraith at the shelter, though he was tenting nearby. He is Flip-Flopping south starting from North Adams MA, though he lives in SE New Hampshire. We had a nice chat, then were joined by a young family (mom, dad, two sons) on a weekend hike, who joined me in the shelter for the night.

26 May.

26 May.
From: Stewart Hollow Brook shelter
To: West Cornwall Rd
Mileage: 10.9
Weather: Sunny, warm, humid

Was the only occupant at the shelter last night except for a bird nested in the support beam that tolerated my presence. Got a bit chilly late so I pulled in my jacket and quilt and slept fairly well after that.
Tried to beat the heat by getting started early as several smaller climbs/descents today.
Started with a nice walk along the Housatonic River, but the trail turned into fallow fields with tall grass, so I applied some DEET to discourage ticks. After returning to the river briefly, the trail began its first climb of the day.
Not much of note. Woods, streams, and the occasional rocky spot.
I finally reached the road to Cornwall Bridge CT one mile walk downhill and made my way into town and the Cornwall Country Market, which was very busy serving locals. There I found one of the three hikers from yesterday eating breakfast, who said that they decided to end their hike early. The others had gotten a ride to pick up their car. I bought a breakfast sandwich and had my AT Passport stamped.
After breakfast, I went across the street to the Cornwall Package Store (beer and wine), signed its hiker register, and also got its stamp in my passport. I chatted with the owner, who offered me a free beer/soft drink, so I accepted a Sprite to take with me. He also let me use the outside water spigot to refill my water and rinse off. I really appreciate these gestures by local businesses!
I hiked back up the road to the trail, noting to myself how easy it was moving uphill on the graded surface compared to hiking the trail.
I chatted with a hiker who was waiting at the trailhead to meet his brother before hiking on. I later learned his trail name is Production, a name I recall from shelter logs.
More stream crossings and ridge climbs/descents.
When I was 2.5 miles from West Cornwall Rd at noon, I found I had a good phone signal so I texted Hudson at the Bearded Woods hostel (www.beardedwoods.com/index.html) that I expected to be ready for pickup after 1pm.
More climbs and descents.
I arrived later than expected, at 1:30pm, and Hudson pulled up only a couple of minutes later - perfect timing! I tossed my pack and poles in the back of his pickup and we were off to the hostel.
Waiting on the porch I found Pootz, a veteran hiker who is a hostel regular and shared a lot of info about hostels all along the AT and about his hikes on other trails around the US.
I took a shower and got into loaner shirt and pants while my clothes were truly washed for the first time since Rock'n'Sole hostel in PA.
Hostel hosts Hudson and his wife Big Lu shared their Memorial Day cookout dinner with us - steak and BBQ chicken, grilled corn on the cob, cole slaw, potato salad, and cornbread muffins. It was great!
Hudson left to provide shuttle service, while Big Lu and Pootz shared hiker and hostel stories with me.
I am really impressed with the clean, well-organized accommodations here, and the hospitality of Hudson and Big Lu. Highly recommend this hostel!

25 May.

25 May.
From: Kent, CT
To: Stewart Hollow Brook shelter
Mileage: 7
Weather: Sunny, warm, breezy

Cooper and Mary were wonderful hosts at Cooper Creek B&B and the accommodations were very comfortable. However, I still did not sleep well. Got up at 7am and began prepping my pack, joined others for breakfast of hard boiled eggs, cantaloupe slices, cereal and cranberry juice.
Decided to ride along with Cooper during drop off of Cinnamon Girl and Wilderness Hawk at West Cornwall Rd trailhead. They would hike south from there and stay another night at the B&B. Cooper passed Kent Falls, highest falls in New England. Cooper had a lot of interesting stories on the way and noted other points of interest. Cooper returned to Kent and dropped me off at the AT trailhead where I got off yesterday.
Hiked across field then uphill in woods. Again minor climbs and descents, but much less strenuous than yesterday.
Day warmed up so splashed some water on head and shirt to cool off.
Reached St Johns Ledges, where three hikers were eating. Did not appear to be a significant viewpoint so I moved on. Then descended steep and uneven rocky steps I was warned about, but not as bad as I feared. The three hikers were behind me on the way down.
At bottom, trail followed mostly level road along the very pretty Housatonic River, then became wide, level trail.
Reached Stewart Hollow Brook shelter sign and turned off the AT. Only 1pm, but sat to rest and read the shelter log. Saw Penguin made it here last night - she had a long day on the trail!
The three hikers I saw earlier stopped in for lunch. They are from Norwalk CT (IIRC) hiking from Kent to Falls Village CT over the holiday weekend. They moved on to a campsite three miles further. Even the weekend hikers are outdistancing me!
I am frustrated with the short hiking day and falling behind others like Penguin and Timezone - the weather is great, but I scheduled a hostel pickup at the West Cornwall Rd trailhead Saturday afternoon and the next shelter ten miles away is beyond that.
At least I should have time tomorrow to get off trail near Cornwall Bridge CT for a meal at the hiker-friendly country market that Cooper recommended.

24 May.

24 May.
From: Ten Mile River shelter
To: Kent CT
Mileage: 10
Weather: sunny, mild

Refilled water from hand pump and had breakfast, chatting with Stuff Sacks before he and Uncle Sam went south. Machine headed north before me, and I left Penguin having breakfast.
Very pretty walk through woods and along river, including river crossing on Ned Anderson Memorial Bridge, then below buzzing high tension powerlines.
Short road walk, then moderately steep climb followed by pleasant level hiking and cool breeze.
Several climbs and descents during the morning were tiring so took a few short breaks.
Nice view from Indian Rocks. Estates and golf course visible. Had 4G access, so called Fort Montgomery post office and got tracking info for bounce box, confirmed it was at Kent PO. Also confirmed room at Cooper Creek B&B outside Kent, where Cinnamon Girl and Wilderness Hawk were staying.
Startled rattlesnack along trail before Schaghticoke campground (feeling was mutual); snake rattled briefly and coiled, but would not leave spot off trail, so I scooted past.
Penguin caught up with me during a climb and also encountered the rattlesnake.
Did not see Penguin during moderately steep, rocky descent to Mt Algo shelter, where I checked log and left note.
Reached road and walked into Kent, past Kent Boarding School.
Had a Reuben hot dog and root beer float at Annie Bananie's, a hiker friendly store, and chatted with another hiker from South Carolina just arrived after long day of travel to begin southbound hike. Ran outside to intercept Tenacious and Timezone who were walking back to the trail. They mentioned Cinnamon Girl and Wilderness Hawk were eating nearby.
Walked up Main Street and stopped at Kent Welcome Center for hikers (unattended restroom, water refill, pay shower), then bank ATM next door.
Cinnamon Girl and Wilderness Hawk were outside laundromat and called me over, then I went to grocery store nearby and picked up a turkey wrap, chocolate milk for a bigger lunch (B&B does not provide dinner) and more Crystal Light mix for the trail.
Retrieved bounce box from post office across the street and swapped out items, then shipped box forward to Massachusetts.
Met Cinnamon Girl and Wilderness Hawk back at Annie Bananie's, where Cooper picked us up and took us outside town to the B&B, a 200 year old house. We are the first guests of the season.
Took shower and settled in, watching TV and charging devices, getting caught up on trail notes.

23 May.

23 May.
From: Telephone Pioneer shelter
To: Ten Mile River shelter
Mileage: 14
Weather: sunny, mild

I got up early and was out after Tenacious, but before others.
There were slippery, steep rocks just after leaving the shelter that slowed descent.
Crossed a swampy area boardwalk. The trail was nice but I was bitten by many mosquitoes.
Entered a nice marsh boardwalk that had Maine and Georgia deck chairs.
Passed the Appalachian Trail railway platform at Pawling NY.
Walked 0.6 mile down road to Tony's Deli for a big breakfast sandwich ("wedge") of sausage, egg, cheese. Also bought a 32oz Apple juice and Gummi worms.
Stopped at hiker-friendly Natural Landscapes Garden Center for phone power, quick rinse at outdoor shower, and stamp for AT Passport. Called Mom!
Hiked through fields, kept mowed along trail. Saw a few rabbits! Signed log in hiker box but did not take anything. Sun coming out, delivering heat and humidity.
Through woods of Pawling Nature Preserve, Nature Conservancy. Rolling landscape.
Stopped at Wiley shelter, ran into Cinnamon Girl and Wilderness Hawk finishing lunch. The pump there warns of contaminated water.
Crossed into Connecticut! Applied DEET, which worked well. Cooled feet and washed legs in stream.
Steep climb over Ten Mile Mountain.
Shelter at bottom. Beautiful spot along river, hand pump and bear box. Penguin stayed, Cinnamon Girl and Wilderness Hawk moved on. Northbound thruhiker Machine from Cologne Germany joined us at the shelter. Stuff Sacks and Uncle Sam tented nearby.

22 May

22 May
From: Graymoor Spiritual Life Center
To: Telephone Pioneer shelter
Mileage: 12+
Weather: Cloudy, cool, afternoon rain.

Before everyone started getting up, I got online and found Appalachian Trail Conservancy deemed trail north impassable to Stormville NY, about 24 miles, and advised hikers to bypass. Also limited shelters and rain in forecast made section a bigger challenge. Decided to bypass.
Tenacious and Timezone agreed to share my first Uber ride from Graymoor to Mountainside Market in Stormville, where we had breakfast, and a light resupply.
Hiked on road .5 mile to trail, and ran into Penguin again while stopping at Morgan Stewart shelter. Penguin just resumed hiking after three days off trail, and also skipped the impassable section.
Reached Telephone Pioneers shelter, shared with Tenacious and Penguin. Cinnamon Girl and Wilderness Hawk walked in, having hiked the impassable section and confirmed it was bad. Timezone hammocked nearby.

21 May.

21 May.
From: Bear Mountain
To: Graymoor Spiritual Life Center
Mileage: 7.3
Weather: Sunny, mild to warm

I took advantage of the Bear Mountain Inn continental breakfast included with the room, eating lots of scrambled eggs and sausage in an attempt to regain weight and protein intake.
The Bear Mountain post office did not open as scheduled for me to get my bounce box for resupply. A park ranger told me this happens sometimes. I called the Fort Montgomery PO, and the only employee on duty drove over to help me out. He went out of his way to forward the box at no charge to Kent, CT PO as I had to checkout of my room before 11am (just made it).
Trying to eat more, I had a ham sandwich and chocolate milk at the Hiker café on the way out.
Passed through the donation supported Trailside museum and zoo and saw my first live bears on this hike.
Crossed high above the Hudson River on the Bear Mountain suspension bridge just before noon. A bit scary that high.
Bit of a road walk on other end, followed by a steep trail climb as the day warmed.
Stopped in at the Appalachian Market, did not resupply as planned but bought two 32oz bottles of Powerade for electrolytes, though I had plenty of water.
Short hike through woods and marsh with lots of poison ivy to Graymoor Spiritual Life Center, a Franciscian monastery that provides shelter for hikers.
Found ballfield pavilion hiker area, with power and water, but no privy and outdoor shower was locked. Was first there today.
Older southbound section hiker named The City of New Orleans was dropped off by a local trail angel, noting trail was impossible to follow to north due to trees down from storm last week. Not the first report, and makes me anxious for tomorrow.
Later joined by other hikers including Tenacious from Ottawa, and Timezone.
Used power and cell signal to get online.
Setup bivy and slept on top of picnic table under pavilion roof.