Quick update:

Quick update:
I made it into Monson ME after fording a river and enduring mosquito bites this morning and will rest up Sunday at Lakeshore House before heading into the "100 Mile Wilderness" on Monday. Had a big BBQ pork sandwich, a hunk of corn bread and blueberry pie a la mode at Spring Creek BBQ. I actually feel full!

I stopped at the Appalachian Trail Visitor Center across the street and worked with the ATC specialist there to schedule my climb of Mount Katahdin after the Labor Day weekend crush at Baxter State Park. Later than I had planned, but the timing works in my favor. I'm also planning to stay in Millinocket ME to rest up before I summit.

I'm also going to check on staying at Whitehouse Landing Camp in the 100 Mile Wilderness, with dinner, a bunk and all you can eat breakfast provided, as well as an opportunity to resupply.

The shift in schedule has me seriously considering continuing my hike from Georgia to West Virginia after a week at home (I originally planned to hike WV to GA), as I want to be home for Thanksgiving and finishing up remaining miles afterwards in my home turf of Virginia will be easier.

I am still keeping daily trail notes and photos, just haven't had time nor energy to post. I may do some catchup tomorrow.

Quick update:

Quick update:
In Caratunk ME at the Caratunk B&B for a near-zero day (nero) today. Crossed the Kennebec River by canoe ferry this morning. Today started misty on the trail and is now steady rain, so its nice to be inside.

Tomorrow I continue 34 miles to Monson ME, the last trail town before the 100 Mile Wilderness and Mount Katahdin.

Quick update: I hiked 13.5 miles over Spaulding, Sugerloaf, South and North Crocker mountains and through a lot of...

Quick update: I hiked 13.5 miles over Spaulding, Sugerloaf, South and North Crocker mountains and through a lot of mud on Friday to arrive in Stratton ME for a zero day today to rest and eat in town.

Monday I'll go over the Bigelows and be out of the daily mountain climbs and into flatter terrain. I'm looking forward to it!

Next town in 37 miles is Caratunk ME, after crossing the Kennebec River by canoe ferry.

Quick update: At the Fieldstone Hostel in Rangeley ME.

Quick update: At the Fieldstone Hostel in Rangeley ME. Made the muddy 9.5 miles from Sabbath Day Pond shelter to Maine Route 4 between 7am and noon, eager to start a near-zero mileage day (nero) and resupply in town.

Steve at Hiker Hut on Route 4 drove me into town.

I resupplied at the IGA supermarket up the road, had a nice stir fry dinner at the Blue Orchid in town, walked around a bit, and am now resting at the hostel.

I'll get back on the trail Wednesday afternoon. There are several big mountains to cross before my next town stop at Stratton ME.

Quick update: off the Appalachian Trail and enjoying beautiful weather at the Pine Ellis hostel in Andover ME after...

Quick update: off the Appalachian Trail and enjoying beautiful weather at the Pine Ellis hostel in Andover ME after several humid, rainy, rocky and difficult days from Gorham NH.

But I had a good time with other hikers along the way, and will be taking a zero day Saturday to rest, resupply and enjoy an All You Can Eat Italian buffet at the Little Red Hen restaurant down the street. Planning to get pizza and ice cream for dinner tonight.

03 July.

03 July.
From: Mizpah Spring hut
To: Lakes of the Clouds hut
Mileage: 4.6
Weather: cloudy, cool, foggy

After breakfast served by the Mizpah Spring Croo (and an entertaining "Titanic" skit), Vinegar and I set off towards Mount Washington.

The trail was beautiful in the morning clouds, but started with a steep rocky climb above the hut. Along the way, Old Soul and Caterpillar joined us and we continued with a cool wind and fog (clouds) wrapped around Monroe peak. We followed a published bypass of a section of the AT on the Crawford Path (the country's oldest maintained trail) due to trail maintenance.

We stopped at Lakes of the Clouds hut at the base of Mount Washington, which was wrapped in clouds. After eating soup, brownies and cookies at the hut, Vinegar then Old Soul and Caterpillar continued over Mount Washington. However, I asked about staying in "The Dungeon," an emergency shelter bunk room beneath the hut's dining area. However, a Croo member strongly recommended I take a work for stay slot instead, and I decided to do so, as I wanted to summit Washington in clear weather (tomorrow's forecast) and Independence Day seemed an auspicious day for it.

However I had to wait a long time for Work for stay. While I waited, I sorted the hut's library and watched clouds lift from the mountain to reveal a beautiful afternoon.

Other work for stay volunteers showed up in the afternoon: Rainbow, Willow, and NoName. The AMC Croo gave us bowls of beef and barley soup while we waited.

When it got dark, I went out to stargaze and was joined by several others. I pointed out some satellites passing overhead, and used my Stellarium app to identify the planet we saw (Jupiter, IIRC).

We volunteers waited while paying guests had dinner, then joined the Croo to eat leftovers, including black bean enchilada, cold vegetarian lasagna, and chocolate iced cake with coconut. Anything not eaten and not compostable must be packed out by Croo members, so we were encouraged to eat all we could.

After a little team building and instruction by the Croo, we set to work rinsing and racking dishes, and cleaning the fridge. The dishes kept coming, but the Croo relieved us after two hours.

Then we had to wait until guests left the dining area, as some were playing cards and talking. We put down our bedding between the tables, and I chose a spot below the windows with a view of Mount Washington.

I did not sleep well. There was some anticipation of my long awaited hike of Mount Washington, but twice I was nearly stepped on by someone (Croo members?) apparently checking the windows.

02 July.

02 July.
From: Ethan Pond shelter
To: Mizpah Spring hut
Mileage: 9.3
Weather: cloudy, warm, humid

I got up early.

It was a quiet, easy hike down to Crawford Notch with Penguin. I believe neither one of us was looking forward to going our separate ways there. I decided to hike to AMC's Mizpah Spring hut and ask about bunk space without a reservation.

We crossed railroad tracks and walked down to the road from the Crawford Notch trailhead parking lot. We said our goodbyes and agreed to keep in touch. It wasn't clear how Penguin was going to get home, but when I crossed the road I found an AMC shuttle stop sign and schedule, so I called Penguin's attention to it, then waved goodbye as I began the climb of Mount Webster and to Webster Cliffs. I was feeling a bit lonely without her company.

It was a long steep climb up Mt Webster. It was rocks and dirt and roots, nothing too difficult. I banged my shin on a rock once and opened an existing wound, but stopped the bleeding quickly.

When I came over the ridgeline rocks, I startled another hiker who thought I was a bear. Apparently he didn't hear the clattering of my trekking poles as I came up.

I met Donna and Gene at Webster Cliffs. I thought the tough part of the climb was over, but there were several difficult rock climbs to tackle including the largest rock slab yet, and Gene led the way.

Gandalf passed us along the way, but paused to chat a bit.

We crossed Mount Jackson peak and crossed several bogs on bog boards.

Donna, Gene and I reached Mizpah Spring hut, and I was able to get a bunk at the AMC member rate (~$122) in a room with a family group (the huts contain many small shared bunk rooms, this one had eight bunks in a room). Donna and Gene got work for stay slots; they were allowed to sleep in the common dining area and eat leftovers in exchange for washing the dinner dishes.

Vinegar showed up and was assigned the same bunk room as I. Vinegar told me he shared the AMC shuttle with Penguin, which was reassuring news that she was on her way home.

Caterpillar and Old Soul arrived and decided to tent at the nearby Nauman campsite.

Vinegar and I sat together for dinner. The AMC "croo" (mostly college age students on summer break) provides all of the guest services. The meal included black bean soup, braised beef, mixed vegetables and dessert. Although all you can eat in theory, it is served family style in courses so we were reluctant to hold up the service for others at the table. However, we finished up everything put on the table.

01 July.

01 July.
From: Guyot shelter
To: Ethan Pond shelter
Mileage: 9.0
Weather: Rainy, chilly, windy to sunny, warm, humid

It was an interesting night at the shelter. Besides being stuffed full of hikers, there was a beautiful orange moon with flashes of heat lightning, which presaged a heavy rain and thunderstorm late that night and again after sunrise with more rain.

The rain let up as we hiked back to the AT and over the ridge, leading to a nice descent.

We stopped at Zealand Falls hut, where I cashed in one of my thruhiker baked goods for some moist and rich chocolate cake, as well as feeding on free leftover pancakes from the hut's breakfast. I also used the opportunity of the hut's restroom to brush my teeth.

Below the Zealand Falls hut the trail was level and mostly smooth, apparently following an old railway bed. It was wonderful after so many rocky trails!

The day became sunny, warmer and more humid, which began to sap my energy. I was following Penguin onto a footbridge across a wide stream when I tripped at the threshold. My water bottle (with lemonade mix!) fell out of my pack and nearly rolled into the river before I grabbed it. We later heard from others that we missed a sign for trail magic at a cabin nearby.

The trail crossed a lot of swampy areas and bog boards after the bridge, and I was getting very tired. Penguin, on the other hand, said she enjoys this weather.

One bright spot for me is I found groups of the roundleafed sundew, Drosera rotundifolia, a carnivorous plant. I grew a variety of carnivorous plants while I was in high school and college, so I was looking for this.

By the time we reached Ethan Pond shelter, I was exhausted. The water in the pond and the stream feeding the pond was orange with tannic acid. We met Irene, the site's caretaker, and paid our fee.

I collapsed on the shelter platform, but later found the energy to collect some water and wash off.

Penguin made a decision to leave the trail tomorrow at Crawford Notch because she was not enjoying the rocks in the White Mountains, and her chronic health issue. I think we were both depressed about that, but I wanted her to look after herself first.

Other hikers arrived, southbounders Rebound and Scout, as well as Gandalf last seen at Hikers Welcome hostel. Vinegar was tenting. We had a full shelter, including a resident mouse, which seemed to be an issue of concern for a section hiker, but I figured we are guests in his home.

It was a warm, humid evening, and Penguin turned her bag around (head toward the opening), and everyone else but me did the same. I was already in my bivy and didn't see much point in bothering. Penguin was concerned about me smelling her feet, but I have a poor sense of smell, an advantage for a hiker!

There was no rain, and it was difficult to sleep. And, yes, the mouse scurried around, but it didn't bother me or my pack.

Errata: I just fixed dates on some of my previous posts.

Errata: I just fixed dates on some of my previous posts. The last two photos for 29 June actually belonged here under 30 June, so are repeated.

30 June.
From: Garfield Ridge shelter
To: Guyot shelter
Mileage: 5.5
Weather: Sunny, mild, humid

Most of the other hikers were out of the shelter early. Penguin and I stopped on the way out to refill our water.

Our hopes for easier hiking were shattered immediately. Descending from Garfield we looked down a steep cliff of blocky rocks with a stream cascading down, with merry white AT blazes on trees alongside. It was slippery, scary and very slow going first thing in the morning. At least there were no bodies of the previous hikers on the rocks, so we knew it could be done, and we did.

There was more rocky trail, then a steep climb of South Twin Mountain. We stopped at AMC's Galehead hut, where I used my thruhiker pass for a free bowl of delightful potato dill soup and rested briefly.

The trail was relatively level after the peak and we tagged along with a section hiking couple Donna and Gene, but became a walk across a rock field as the clouds blew over the ridge. Penguin said she could only go another five miles, as she was having pain trying to take a full breath. The only options were Zealand Falls hut at five miles or Guyot shelter, which was one mile off the AT. We agreed on Guyot, because I also wanted to avoid a possible afternoon storm.

We were the first at Guyot shelter for the night as it was early afternoon, though there was a pair of hikers resting, one recovering from heat exhaustion. We ate and rested, but were joined by many other weekend hikers later, and the shelter was crowded for the night.

29 June.

29 June.
From: The Notch hostel, shuttle to Flume Visitor Center
To: Garfield Ridge shelter
Mileage: 11.5
Weather: Sunny, damp

Penguin and I took The Notch morning shuttle to the Flume Visitor Center to hike over Franconia Ridge, famous for being one of National Geographic's top hikes in the world.

It was a sunny day, but the previous rain meant wet trail and streams down the path. It was a long climb up to the ridge, and occasional clouds drifted through the peaks. There were a lot of day hikers on the ridge, maybe more than usual given the Friday before Independence Day.

We enjoyed the view for a bit, but clouds were building with the threat of thunderstorms, so we moved on and began a slow, rocky descent.

There were a few distant rumbles of thunder that made Penguin nervous, then a couple of nearby claps as we approached Garfield Peak that gave me pause (I researched lightning in graduate school, so I know the risks and recommendations well). However, it was quiet for a long time so I felt comfortable moving on.

My feet were very sore by the time we reached Garfield Ridge shelter. The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) provides caretakers at many sites and charges a fee to cover maintenance due to high visitor usage. We met the caretaker, James, and Penguin covered the initial $10 fee for my AMC thruhiker pass, which includes a 50% discount ($5) at other sites for two weeks, as well as a free soup and two free baked goods at the AMC huts. Not a bad deal!

28 June.

28 June.
From: The Notch hostel
To: The Notch hostel
Mileage: 0
Weather: Rain

Raining as forecast, so a quiet zero day inside for me.

I made waffles for breakfast, and had canned ravioli for lunch.

Penguin, Grits, Treeline, and Vinegar took a shuttle to Lincoln. Been there, done that (in dry weather!) so I declined.

27 June.

27 June.
From: The Notch hostel
To: The Notch hostel
Mileage: 0
Weather: Cloudy, mild

Penguin wanted another zero day at The Notch hostel, and I didn't have a problem with that! However, Thursday's weather forecast called for heavy rain and flood watches, so we reluctantly concluded that we will take a third zero tomorrow. I am ready to get back on the trail and getting restless.

But today the weather is pleasant, so Penguin and I walked down the road to Smiley's market in Woodstock (http://lincolnwoodstocknhproduce.com), where I bought a turkey and ham sub and some cherry tomatoes for snacking.

26 June.

26 June.
From: The Notch hostel
To: The Notch hostel
Mileage: 0
Weather: Sunny, mild

A zero (mileage) day!

Although I debated taking Vitamin I(ibuprofen) last night for the first time on my hike, I didn't. I was happy that I recovered from Kinsman without it.

Penguin slept in, and I tried not to bother her.

I didn't feel like sitting around the hostel all day, so I got a shuttle lift to McDonald's in Lincoln for lunch, walked along the main road (pictured people with harnesses walking rope bridges), and resupplied with another shuttle pickup at the Price Chopper market.

Other hikers we knew arrived at The Notch, including Vinegar, Grits, and Treeline.

25 June.

25 June.
From: The Notch hostel, shuttle to Kinsman Notch
To: Flume Visitor Center at Franconia Notch, shuttle to The Notch hostel
Mileage: 17.1
Weather: Cloudy, cool morning to sunny afternoon

Penguin and I took The Notch scheduled shuttle to Kinsman Notch. Being a purist, I opted to carry my full pack and hike south to north over the Kinsman Peaks. Penguin did the same (though she didn't carry all of her food). Some hikers opt to slackpack (carry light day packs) this section north to south.

An ominous start, the trail began with a climb on wet rocks, and Penguin's water bottle fell out and ended up twenty feet down a steep leafy slope. I started to retrieve it and slipped on the rocks, banging up my shin and elbow. I managed to get up, scramble down and pass the water bottle back up.

The trail evened out after that short climb and was typical up and down past Mt Wolf peak until we reached Eliza Brook shelter at 7.5 miles. We stopped to drink and snack before the 2,000 foot climb to South Kinsman, and were joined by a 20 something hiker who didn't say much (Penguin believed he was stoned, and I won't disagree. He certainly ate many of my cookies when I offered).

Then began a steep climb alongside some very pretty waterfalls. But that was okay.

However, the trail changed to very steep climbs up wet rock slabs, looking for footholds and pulling up on trees and roots along the edges. It was difficult and very tiring, again making me worry about falls. Penguin was equally unhappy and there were lots of expletives from both of us. How they call this a "trail" I can't understand. It was nearly technical rock climbing, and I wished I had a helmet and shin/elbow guards.

Finally the trail leveled out and I felt relieved, only to be depressed to come upon an elevated pond under a peak we still had to climb! I was now concerned that we might not make the scheduled shuttle.

When we reached South Kinsman Peak above treeline, there were no clouds blocking the view but we didn't have time to stop and enjoy it.

After a small dip, we reached North Kinsman Peak, but there wasn't much of a view, and we started our descent. There were more slippery rocks but at least they were drying in the sun.

It was pretty obvious we weren't going to make the shuttle, so Penguin called to reschedule a shuttle for 8pm. I hoped we didn't run into any more delays, but the hostel owner reminded us of two significant stream crossings ahead of us.

We passed by Kinsman shelter, then reached the first of the Appalachian Mountain Club's famous huts, Lonesome Lake Hut. I wished we had time to stop, but shadows were already getting long. Near the hut was Kinsman Pond, which was spectacular, but we still had to hurry to beat sunset.

It was gettting darker but the trail was rocky. We had just made the first stream crossing when Slack arrived, but he decided to camp there.

It was easier the second time we crossed the stream. Then the trail leveled out and became smoother so we moved faster as it got darker. We were also encouraged by the sound of road traffic.

We crossed under a highway overpass then followed a paved path 1 mile to the Flume Visitor Center, arriving just before 8 pm.

Penguin left a voicemail with The Notch hostel about the shuttle, and we waited a bit before it arrived to our relief. We were debating our options if it didn't show up.

Back at the hostel, I rewarded myself with two pints of Ben & Jerry ice cream (black raspberry, strawberry cheesecake) for dinner. For the first time in a long while, I felt tired and sore.

We were definitely ready for a zero day!