Saturday, July 28, 2018

Update:

Update:
I returned home from Gorham, NH on 10 July to complete my career retirement process, which became official at midnight ET on Saturday, 21 July 2018.

On 19 July, my colleagues gave me a wonderful sendoff lunch during which I volunteered a briefing about the hike (so far) and ran through some of my photos. I made a few edits to the briefing (and will continue to do so), but here is the link to the PDF (slides and notes) for anyone interested:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WHwpb4PLTniZWBBnpGozrcf3FZ0kkkDH

Feel free to drop me a comment or question.

I have my travel reservations to return to Gorham this week and continue my adventure in Maine. I'm a bit anxious, because I made a 15 mile mountain hike last Thursday (yay, retirement!) on a rocky trail that left the soles of my feet very sore though my muscles felt fine. I don't expect Maine to be any kinder to me, so I'm hoping to take a slow start.

I still need to catch up on my June-July posts, but I'll summarize that Penguin dropped off-trail at Crawford Notch, NH while I continued through the White Mountains, summiting Mount Washington at 7:30am on Independence Day in perfect weather. Penguin resumed hiking the AT from Georgia to Franklin, North Carolina, then jumped back north to hike New York to Vermont again. It is unlikely our paths will cross on our respective hikes, but we are texting each other.

Thanks for following!
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WHwpb4PLTniZWBBnpGozrcf3FZ0kkkDH

Sunday, July 15, 2018

23 June.


23 June.
From: Hikers Welcome hostel, Glencliff NH
To: Hikers Welcome hostel, Glencliff NH
Mileage: 0
Weather: Sunny, mild

A restful zero day at Hikers Welcome hostel.

We were joined by Stealth and StillBill, among many other hikers.

I was worried that my REI shoe order did not arrive at the Post Office (according to the tracking information it had not been delivered), but all of my packages were there! I sorted through the bounce box on the picnic table at the hostel, tried my new shoes (good fit, but probably should have half-sized up as others recommend), and repacked a new bounce box, figuring out how to get my worn but still usable Altra Lone Peaks stuffed in. I decided to take out remaining items that I needed and ship the box home, as I didn't see any need to ship any items forward to myself at this point. The bounce box had fulfilled its purpose.

After dropping the box off at the post office, I spent several hours watching DVDs with others in the common room. I selected one of my favorites, Road to Perdition, which developed a bit of an audience (the movie has an excellent cast and cinematography, though its not well known). The movie ended just as we had to leave for the 5pm shuttle run to the market. I picked up a sub for my evening meal and a breakfast sandwich for the next morning.

I really enjoyed my stay!

22 June.

22 June.
From: Hexacuba shelter
To: Hikers Welcome hostel, Glencliff NH
Mileage: 15.8
Weather: Sunny, chilly to warm

Penguin and I started out of the shelter by 7am, and immediately began the 850 foot climb over Mt Cube, which included many areas of bare rock, thankfully dry but sometimes made the trail hard to find. However, this also afforded nice views of the surrounding mountains.

We ran into route NH 25A at Camp Moosilauke and found where the trail resumed up the road. After a couple of miles we reached a gravel road, where a couple parked along the road called us over and asked about another hiker, a name I did not recognize. It turned out this was the famous trail angel Omelette Man with his wife and two dogs, and they provided some amazing trail magic - bananas, dates, lots of Tampico juice, and (true to his name) a western omelette made on a stove in the back of his pickup with as many eggs as we wanted (his record request was 30!). I had a four egg omelette with heaps of cheese, chunks of ham, and peppers. It was wonderful! We spent some time chatting until other hikers (first was Spice Weasel) began to arrive, so we left to make room and continue.

We reached NH 25C and had a short road walk, during which Penguin took more pictures of flowers along the road. We climbed 650 feet over Mount Mist, then descended to Glencliff NH and walked up the road to the Hikers Welcome hostel (https://hikerswelcome.com/), which has two buildings with bunkrooms, an older one over the common area with electricity and a newer structure (the Barn) without electricity. Most of the bunks in the old building were occupied, so we opted to find bunks on the second floor of the Barn, where there was plenty of space. Another downside of the Barn was the WiFi signal did not reach, so we returned to the common area to recharge our devices and get online.

The hostel was the most relaxed "commune-like" of the hostels I stayed at, with a tarp-covered outside area with a curtained off shower and flush toilet, and laundry/sink areas. The common area inside has an enormous collection of DVDs and music for anyone to enjoy. Brooklyn and Bisquick was the couple currently managing the hostel on-site, and provided a free 5pm van shuttle to the market in town for resupply and deli sandwiches, which we ordered from the menu by passing around a phone at 4:30pm.

Penguin wanted to take a zero day at the hostel before we faced the first big mountain in New Hampshire, 4,802 foot Mt. Moosilauke, and I agreed. I also needed to pick up my bounce box of supplies that I forwarded from Hanover to the small Post Office across the street from the hostel, as well as pick up my REI order for new Altra Lone Peak trail shoes, Ben's 100 DEET spray and a new camp toothbrush.






21 June.

21 June.
From: Trapper John shelter
To: Hexacuba shelter
Mileage: 12
Weather: Sunny, breezy and mild

I was out of the Trapper John site before Penguin.

Shortly after crossing Grafton Turnpike the trail entered tall grass and my shoes were soaked with morning dew.

Penguin joined me during a 2,000 foot climb to the peak of Smarts Mountain and a fire tower, but several of the pot smokers from last night were there ahead of us, and Penguin did not want to be exposed to irritating smoke while they took a break, so we bypassed the peak and Fire Wardens Cabin there to get ahead of them. I decided keeping up with Penguin was more important than the short excursion to the peak.

The trail dropped then climbed to the Eastman Ledges with some views, then climbed further up the south peak of Mt Cube (600 feet total) to the Hexacuba shelter, which was a unique hexagon-shape and led to some discussion on how to arrange sleeping bags.

Also at the shelter for the night were Doc and Chief, retirees from southwestern Virginia who were hiking the Whites. They chose a tent site. Joining us at the shelter were the Boston crew and Dusty Pilgrim. Because we were first at the shelter, Penguin requested that any smoking be kept out of the shelter, which did not go over well with one of the Boston crew, though they did smoke outside the shelter (not far enough, really). Doc and Chief (who was a former police chief) offered some support if we needed it, but we let it slide.






20 June.

20 June.
From: Norwich VT/Hanover NH
To: Trapper John shelter
Mileage: 17.4
Weather: Sunny and mild

Penguin and I packed and cleaned up after ourselves, and left our thanks in the register at the trail angel's home in Norwich.

We walked into Hanover and had breakfast at Lou's, which was very busy and rather noisy. I had the poppy pancakes special, and we each took advantage of a free muffin for AT hikers. I had the impression that Penguin was eager to leave, given the crowds and noise.

We walked the trail along roads out of town, but were so busy talking that we missed a turn and I stopped to check the AWOL guide and we backtracked a short distance. The AT climbed out behind an athletic field. A short distance later, I left Penguin to stop at the Velvet Rocks shelter, which was farther off trail than I expected. I managed to catch up with Penguin, but fell behind again as we ascended Moose Mountain and I lost sight of her.

I stopped by the Moose Mountain shelter, as well, and found trail magic of a kind tied to the pack hangers - a storage box of assorted liquor mini-bottles, Hershey's miniature chocolates, and Advil (presumably for the resultant hangover more than sore muscles). Not being a drinker, I snagged a couple of chocolates for myself and Penguin. I was happy not to be around for the expected party at the shelter that evening.

There was a long descent and a long slow climb with some nice viewpoints along Holts Ledge. The trail dropped to Trapper John shelter, which was beside a remnant cabin chimney. Penguin was already there, as were several section hikers from Boston with their German Shepard. We were later joined by thru hikers from Thistle Hill shelter and Wildfire, who I hadn't seen since Palmerton PA (he had taken a couple weeks off trail).

Because some of the hikers were smoking pot near the shelter, Penguin decided to tent overnight.






19 June.

19 June.
From: Thistle Hill shelter
To: Norwich VT/Hanover NH
Mileage: 14.7
Weather: Sunny, breezy and mild

The trail included a road walk through the small town of West Hartford VT and across the bridge over the White River. The trail along the road wasn't particularly well blazed, so I had to check my AWOL guide a few times. When Penguin and I crossed the river, I barely heard a woman across the road calling out if we wanted to stop by for coffee, but Penguin wanted to continue and I'm not a coffee drinker, so I waved my thanks as we continued down the road (I later heard about trail magic in town, which I suspect was from the same woman). We reentered the woods after navigating along roads through town and under I-89.

Penguin and I took a break at the Happy Hill shelter (as Happy Hermit, I had to!). It was a nice shelter with a loft, but I did swat a few mosquitoes while snacking on Gummi bears.

There were several climbs and descents with nice views at summits. The trail popped out on a residential street in Norwich VT, where we immediately found trail magic - a cooler of canned soda. It was just what I needed and a guzzled one down. As Penguin tried to put the hiker register back in the mailbox there (the door stuck), the owner/trail angel showed up and we had a nice chat with him. He also told us his neighbor was putting out watermelon for hikers, so we stopped by and chatted with her, as well. She offered us watermelon slices and banana nut bread, and she turned out to be a coordinator for the trail angels in Norwich and Hanover NH, so provided us with the latest list of homeowners who host AT hikers overnight, since town accommodations are rather pricey.

Penguin and I stopped at Dan and Whits General Store and asked about free leftover food in their hiker box. Penguin took a container of mac and cheese and I took a ham and egg muffin sandwich. We also bought and split a large bottle of apple juice. While we ate, I made two unsuccessful calls from the angel list to get hosted for the night (out of town and room being renovated). Penguin tried another with a text message, and we hiked across the Connecticut River bridge and state line into Hanover, where we stopped at the post office (I forwarded my bounce box), the CVS for resupply, Ramunto's Pizza for lunch (first slice free for AT hikers!), and gave the angel list to Stealth who was passing by. Penguin stopped by Zimmerman's outfitter then the bookstore in an unsuccessful search for the AT trail map section north of Hanover (she had to order it online).

We received confirmation that a trail angel had room for us overnight, but we had to return to Norwich. We rushed to catch a free bus ride back. The host family was very friendly and showed us a magnificent apartment above the garage with its own kitchen, bathroom and two bedrooms. The family also let us feast on dinner leftovers, fish and beef tacos. It was amazing trail magic from a very generous family!






Saturday, July 14, 2018

18 June.

18 June.
From: Wintturi shelter
To: Thistle Hill shelter
Mileage: 12.5
Weather: Sunny, warm, humid

Nearly everyone else had left the shelter site and I was ready to go, but Penguin was sleeping in and didn't show signs of moving. The brother and sister were still in camp, and he played a loud chord on his harmonica, which elicited a "WHAT THE F**K?" from Penguin in her sleeping bag, so his sister asked him to stop. I almost laughed - Penguin isn't shy about speaking her mind. Yes, it was late by hiker standards, but it was not the first time he violated hiker etiquette (in this case, avoid disturbing sleeping hikers). Penguin told me she would catch up, so I hit the trail.

There were lots of climbs and descents, and crossing overgrown fields (and checking for ticks) in the hot sun. However, there were two farm markets on the trail today and I hoped to get soda and ice cream on the way. My first disappointment was On the Edge Farm, which posted a message at the trailhead message board that hours changed and it was closed on Mondays (today) and Tuesdays. It was another six miles to Cloudland Market, during which time Penguin caught up with me.

However, I was ahead of Penguin when I reached the gravel road to Cloudland, and found a sign that the market was closed Sunday through Tuesday! However, AWOL's guide indicated a water spigot was available, and at the very least I could refill my water bottle with lemonade mix, so I walked uphill on the sunny road. I refilled my lemonade and ate a can of sardines in mustard for lunch on the Cloudland porch, and used an outside outlet to add some charge on my phone. Just as I was preparing to leave, the owner (?) drove up with fresh flowers and to secure the place before the forecast afternoon thunderstorms. She offered to let me in to buy a soda or ice cream, but I was feeling a bit ornery and no longer felt the need. However, I thanked her and headed down the road, sure that Penguin had long since passed by.

It was a bit more than two miles to the Thistle Hill shelter, and I arrived at the shelter just as the rain started. Penguin was already there, and had indeed been wondering what happened to me (I later received her text message about that). After dropping my pack in the shelter, I went outside to rinse off standing in the cool rain.

The privy at Thistle Hill is unique - the top portion is entirely screened so it gives the occupant a 360 degree view.

A group of younger hikers traveling together arrived to tent and stay in the shelter that evening. The rain was heavy at times overnight, so I was happy to be in the shelter.






17 June.

17 June.
From: Mountain Meadows Lodge
To: Wintturi shelter
Mileage: 16
Weather: Sunny, warm, humid

I was a bit reluctant to return to the trail, especially when the mosquitoes started biting shortly after Penguin and I reentered the woods. We passed a couple of AT hikers, then let them pass us when Penguin opted to stop at the Thundering Falls observation point. The trail then crossed some wetlands on a boardwalk and we paused to appreciate the flowers. We could already feel the heat of the sun and I was not looking forward to the 1,300 foot climb of Quimby Mountain ahead, though there was a nice view along the powerline right of way at the top.

Four miles along, we reached the trail to The Lookout cabin at the summit. Penguin opted to wait at the trail intersection while I checked it out. StillBill and Stealth talked about staying here tonight. The cabin has a steep staircase to an observation platform on the roof and a very nice view. While the cabin is private property, the owners allow hikers to use it at their own risk. The cabin has a porch and a lot of space inside with a loft and fireplace. However, it was pretty warm inside with the windows closed. I reviewed the register on the fireplace mantle and found entries from Production and Treeline, which I photographed to share with Penguin. When I returned to the AT, I could not find Penguin, so I hoped she continued on the trail and hurried along to catch up. I was relieved to find her up the trail - she left because the mosquitoes were biting while she was waiting.

We were pretty tired, it was getting late, and we were ready to stop at the Wintturi shelter. The access trail to the shelter was rather long and not very easy to follow, but we eventually heard others at the campsite and got settled in at the shelter. The brother and sister hikers showed up, as well. One of the occupants, a thruhiker named Hoot, objected when I asked about hanging my food bag on a pack hanger in the shelter (officially a no-no, but common practice) so I grudgingly went out to find a branch to hang my bear bag (my first time doing so by myself). It took me a while to find a good branch, but I got the line over the branch on my second try and used the PCT method to secure my bag for the night.

I briefly got lost in the woods when I left the shelter to relieve myself in the middle of the night. It was very dark and I took a side trail back that missed the shelter. I had to retrace my steps a couple of times and use my headlamp's white beam (etiquette requires using the red beam at night) before I found the shelter.

All in all, not my favorite shelter stay.






Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Quick update:

Quick update:
I hiked over Wildcat and Carter peaks on Saturday, over Moriah peak on Sunday, and took another zero day at the Rattle River hostel on Monday.

I am currently on a bus headed to Boston, then train to DC for a couple of weeks off-trail before returning to hike the rest of the AT in Maine.

It will be odd returning to off-trail life, and I need to keep in trail condition for my return.

Thursday, July 5, 2018

Quick update:

Quick update:
Today I completed hiking the AT through the Presidential Range of New Hampshire's White Mountains! I summited Mt Washington early on Independence Day in perfect weather and lingered a few hours.

I still have a challenging day tomorrow, but looking at a couple weeks off trail after I reach Gorham NH in two days.

Penguin went off trail at Crawford Notch a few days ago, but I'm keeping in touch.